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Cause
|
Solution
|
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Pad is too aggressive.
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Use the recommended pad for a particular
task, whether it be burnishing or cleaning. |
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Pad is dirty or has build-up.
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Clean with a wire brush or put pad in
deep sink and spray off the build-up. Hang up to dry. |
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Floor is dirty or sandy
|
Use walk-off mats; dust thoroughly before
burnishing. |
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Restorer not properly diluted
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Follow label instruction. Overuse may
leave "soft" top coat which can swirl. |
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Finish applied too thick, excessive
recoating
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Apply thin coats and allow each coat
to dry before applying the next one. |
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Finish not completely "cured"
before burnishing.
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Allow more time to dry. Many finishes
should not be burnished for 24 hours. |
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Too much pad pressure.
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Do not place additional weight on the
burnisher deck. Do not lift up on the handle when burnishing. |
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Residue from treated dust mops.
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Only use untreated mops. Oil and silicone
used in treated mops can cause softening of finish film. |
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Floor not properly cleaned and
neutralized after stripping.
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Always rinse thoroughly with neutral
cleaner and water. |
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Make sure swirls are not coming
from cleaning equipment
|
Worn cleaning pads or brushes have been
known to scratch finish in same circular pattern as buffer. |
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Use of alkaline degreaser or
stripper for cleaning.
|
This will soften film. Only use cleaners
designed for daily floor care use. |
Discolored
floor finish
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Floor not properly rinsed after stripping. |
Vacuum up as much stripper and old finish
as possible. Rinse thoroughly with neutral cleaner and water at least
twice. A "hot" floor can cause finish to discolor. Change rinse water
often and wring mop thoroughly. |
| All finish not removed in stripping. |
After stripping, check dry, newly stripped
floor with thumbnail for residual finish. Strip again if necessary. |
| Finish applied with dirty mop and
bucket |
Always clean mops before applying finish.
Never use finish all the way to the bottom of the bucket because dirt,
grit, and lint settle to the bottom. Always rinse bucket when switching
from one task to another. Stripper residue left over in the bucket
used for finish could ruin the finish. Line bucket with plastic bag
to avoid contamination. |
| Poor maintenance procedures. |
New finish applied over finish that
has not been cleaned will turn dark. |
| Too much finish; infrequent scrubbing. |
Use restorer to bring back the shine.
Follow maintenance schedule of daily cleaning and monthly scrubbing.
Apply new finish to traffic areas only. Avoid low traffic areas and
baseboards. |
| Restorer is used too often or concentration
is too strong. |
Follow directions for restorer dilution
and usage. |
| Dirt, sand, and grit are ground into
the floor. |
Dust mop before performing any maintenance.
Clean with scrubber before any buffing operations. |
| Dark spots showing up in finish. |
SOS pads may have been used during strip.
Soap from pads embeds in tile and causes dark spots when it reacts
with finish. |
| Dark areas developing (especially
at the end of isles). |
If cleaner/restorer is used with automatic,
and product is based on pine oil or fatty acid soaps, residue could
be softening film (especially where automatic trails are not picked
up quickly) and causing floor to attract dirt. |
| Rust spots develop on
tile with in a short time after stripping. |
Fines from steel wool used
on problem areas during stripping are reacting with floor finish. |
Streaks
in finish
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Recoated before prior coat was dry. |
If streaks will not burnish out, strip,
rinse well with neutral cleaner and water, and apply new finish. Wait
20-30 minutes between coats. Make sure each coat is dry. Do not continue
to recoat if mop drags. |
| Finish is applied on new tile before
factory finish is stripped. |
Strip, rinse well with neutral cleaner
and water, and apply new finish. |
| Dirty mop or equipment. |
Use clean rayon mops and mop buckets
when performing floor care tasks. |
| Frozen floor finish. |
Replace finish. Strip, rinse well with
water and apply new finish. |
| Floor not properly maintained; maintenance
schedule not followed. |
Strip, rinse well with water and apply
new finish |
| Mop head not "loaded" with enough
finish during application. |
Make sure mop is just short of dripping
when removed from wringer. Turn mop over every 3-4 strokes to ensure
proper delivery from mop. |
| Mop coming of floor when applying. |
Apply in smaller strokes. Do not extend
reach with mop. |
Circular
Blemishes or "fish-eye
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Application of finish too heavy. |
Apply in thin, even coats |
| Finish was agitated when poured in bucket causing
air bubbles. Excessive use of wringer. |
Gently lean on mop in wringer to load. Do not use
wringer excessively. |
| Floor contaminated with solvent cleaner or oil
based product. |
Watch for use of dust mop treatments or silicone
based polishes. Do not use alcohol or any other chemical to eliminate
foam in bucket. |
Powdering/Poor
Adhesion
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Pad is too aggressive. |
Use pad recommended by manufacturer.
Try less aggressive pad. |
| Pad is dirty |
Clean with a wire brush or put pad in
a deep sink and spray off the build-up. Hang up to dry. |
| Restorer/maintainer mixed and applied
improperly. |
Follow manufacturers directions. |
| Recoated before prior coat was dry. |
Allow 20-30 minutes between coats. High
humidity may mean extra drying time. |
| Finish is applied on new tile before
factory finish is stripped. |
Strip, rinse well with water and apply
finish. |
| Treated dust mop residue. |
Oil and silicone from treated mops can
cause on layer of finish to separate from another. Use untreated dust
mops. |
| Floor not properly cleaned and neutralized
in stripping. |
Always rinse thoroughly with water after
stripping. |
| Wrong product for maintenance methods. |
Contact finish manufacturer to ensure
that you have proper product. |
| Poor durability due to Metal buckets.
Metal buckets affecting crosslinking. |
Use bucket liners if using metal or
galvanized buckets. |
No
Shine
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Floor not properly rinsed after stripping. |
Deep scrub, recoat and burnish repeatedly. Use clean
burnishing pad. If problem persists, re-strip and apply new finish. |
| Finish applied too thin. |
Scrub and recoat more frequently in high traffic
areas. |
| Contamination in finish. |
Always clean mops before applying finish. Never
use a strip mop to apply finish. Always clean out mop bucket when
switching from on task to another. Never pour finish from mop bucket
into its container. |
| Burnishing pad too aggressive. |
Use pad recommended by manufacturer. |
| Dirty Pad. |
Clean with a wire brush or put pad in a deep sink
and spray off the build-up. Hang up to dry. |
| Floor has too much sand, dirt, or grit. |
Use walk off mats. Dust mop thoroughly before burnishing. |
| Floor finish diluted or tampered with. |
Have dealer check solids. |
| Inadequate dry time. |
Recoating too quickly hazes film and reduces gloss. |
| Stripping procedure opened pours of substrate.
To harsh a stripper/dilution |
Reduce amount of floor stripper at once to lower
dwell time. Make sure stripper diluted to manufacturers recommendations.
Do not add any "accelerators" to stripper. If tile has been "opened",
use sealer to help build gloss. |
Slippery
Floors
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Treated mops depositing oil or silicone. |
Use only untreated mops. Scrub and recoat slippery
areas. |
| Lubricants, oils, polishes, or like products
spilled on floor. |
Scrub and recoat areas spills occurred. Clean or
replace soiled dust mops to avoid spreading the problem throughout
the building. |
| Water tracked in from outside. |
Use walk off mats during inclement weather. Replace
them often. Keep areas dry. |
| Floor is not being burnished enough. |
Burnish floor regularly to restore "tightness" to
floor. |
| Not enough finish has been applied. |
A finished floor is more slip-resistant than a bare
floor. Use only finishes which comply with ASTM D2047 Coefficient
of friction |
Edge
build-up and discoloration
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Poor maintenance of edges |
Follow tasks recommended in "How to section" |
| Finish too thick on the edges |
Apply recoats of finish to traffic areas only. Stay
about six inches away from edges. Burnishing will feather the finishes
together. |
| Restorer/maintainer applied too close to the
edges. |
Apply restorer/maintainer to traffic areas only. |
Soft,
easily scratched finish
|
Cause
|
Solution
|
| Not burnishing floor regularly to harden finish
and reduce dust |
Burnish floor on a regular schedule. |
| Too much dirt, grit, and sand being tracked into
building. |
Use a sufficient number of walk-off mats. Dust mop
more frequently. |
| Wrong choice of floor pads. |
Follow manufacturer's recommendations. |
| Wrong choice of floor finish |
Check with your floor care consultant to determine
proper choice of finish. |
| Restorer/maintainer mixed too strongly. |
Follow label directions. |
| Cleaner use contaminating floor. |
Check for over use of floor cleaner. Cut back on
dilution. Rinse floor with only water prior to recoating or restoring. |
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